Enjoy some true restored Paris heritage, with the Art Deco treasures of the Brasserie Mollard

The famous Mollard brasserie, located on rue Saint-Lazare, has recently undergone a metamorphosis to regain its original splendor, particularly in its private lounges. Founded in 1867, opposite the legendary Gare Saint-Lazare and witness to the transformations of Paris, this institution remains a jewel of Art Nouveau and culinary art, making it a true institution.

In addition, Mollard has preserved its unique character thanks to meticulous renovations carried out by Stéphane Malchow, its owner, and Philippe André, a renowned architect. This project is in line with the history of this Parisian institution which, since its creation, has successfully combined tradition and modernity. By AP 

The history of the Brasserie Mollard is inseparable from that of Paris. Founded in 1865 by the Mollard couple, who just arrived from Savoy, this legendary Parisian brasserie prospered thanks to the proximity of the Saint-Lazare train station, which was then in full development (photo credits: Brasserie Mollard).

The success of this establishment allowed its founders to undertake ambitious renovation work in 1895, with the help of the architect Edouard Niermans, famous for Le Negresco hotel in Nice, who designed here not only the layout of the place, but also its furniture and decoration.

However, unfortunately the two World Wars marked a turning point for Mollard. During the First World War, the brasserie saw its clientele decimated, and the post-war period plunged the establishment into a period of oblivion. Then, its sublime decor was considered as outdated and was hidden under layers of paint and mirrors. Only the central glass roof was lost at that time. Bought by the Gauthier family in 1928, we can consider that Mollard has weathered many crises, particularly that of the 1930s, before once again becoming an essential place in Paris‘ post-war period. Nowadays, Mollard is listed as a historical monument since 1989, remaining a reference in the landscape of centenary Parisian brasseries today. Thereafter, this place has evolved with the times, while retaining its unique character. Under the leadership of Stéphane Malchow, grandson of Pierre Gauthier, the family that has been owning the property since 1929, it seems that Mollard has embarked on a vast renovation campaign for its 150th anniversary.

Thanks to Stéphane Malchow’s passion for preserving heritage and his collaboration with artisans and experts, it looks as if Mollard is today more than ever a living testimony to Paris’ rich architectural and gastronomic past. In 2012, the Malchow family had already begun restoring this amazing facade, removing the grey dirt accumulated over time from pollution, and eventually illuminating the Mollard name, with a stained glass fresco. This first step marked the beginning of a series of renovations, aimed at restoring this brasserie to its former glory, while respecting its history. Thus, by reviving its mosaics, its countless stained glass windows and other decorative elements that made Mollard a so much acclaimed establishment, from the end of the 19th century, the brasserie is reconnecting with its history while looking to the future. A successful example of how an establishment can evolve without denying its roots.

Then, in 2017, a new milestone was reached with the reconstruction of the original glass roof, destroyed in 1920. For instance, Philippe André, who specializes in the renovation of historic sites, carried out this meticulous mission, recreating the glass roof, similar to period documents, discovered in the archives of the French Institute of Architecture. This skylight transformed the appearance of the central room, reviving the spirit of the brewery, as it existed when it was founded. One of the great successes of this renovation is undoubtedly the restoration of the private salons, located at the back of the establishment. These more intimate spaces, once again decorated by the architect Edouard Niermans, had lost much of their charm over the decades. It’s sure that over time, fashions and tastes have evolved, and the superb mosaics and decorative elements had been hidden or abandoned. 

This restoration in collaboration with craftsmen such as master glassmaker Éric Bonte, who recreated engraved glass panels, representing nymphs, and the mosaicist from the Lilikpo workshop. The green and gold mosaics, characteristic of the Art Deco style, have been unearthed, intact after being hidden for nearly 50 years. While the decoration has undergone major renovations, the homemade cuisine, proposed there, continues to perpetuate Mollard‘s gastronomic tradition. The brasserie is particularly renowned for its seafood, including its oyster beds at the entrance and its specialties, such as lobster thermidor or the unmissable southern bouillabaisse.

In fact, the chef Arnaud Regnier, active since 1995, perpetuates this culinary heritage, having learned alongside former chef Joël Prud’homme. As for pastry chef, named Nicolas Zedouard, he excels in the art of pastry, after notably having worked in the event catering sector.

Among the various Mollard classics, such as homemade duck foie gras, flambé dishes with cognac or the incomparable surprise omelette, remain essential items on the menu, ensuring continuity between the past and the present. Thus, this traditional brasserie tends to offer as much as possible dishes, prepared from fresh and quality products, whatever it comes about seafood, grilled fishes and other types of traditional French specialties, at the heart of its menu. As a result, you can find daily specials, renewed according to arrivals, with equally succulent creations.

Therefore, you may find tuna tartare, or seasonal fish carpaccio, not to mention lobsters to share between two, grilled prawns with typically French accompaniments, just as assorted vegetables, such as steamed potatoes or creamy homemade mash. In terms of sweet treats, the accent is focused again on the great French classics, such as the flambéed crepe, the Norwegian omelette, burnt with Grand Marnier or a generous morello cherry ice cream cup, sprinkled with some morello cherry spirit and enhanced with a huge mountain of whipped cream. It is obvious that you will not be able to fully enjoy this unforgettable moment in Mollard, without one of its numerous vintages, hand-selected by your head sommelier.

Brasserie Mollard, 115 Rue Saint-Lazare, 75008 Paris (France) / Phone : 00 33 (0)1 43 87 50 22. More details and bookings on their official website.