After Alain Senderens, L’Archestrate restaurant gets reborn in Paris, with the chef Martin Gomès-Leal5 min read
Located at number 34 of the historical rue de Bourgogne, behind the French National Assembly in Paris, we invite you to discover a new unmissable Parisian culinary address. Indeed, replacing the old Savarin and here renamed L’Archestrate, after the original and emblematic name in the gastronomic world of the former Michelin-starred restaurant of Chef Alain Senderens. This enigmatic Greek name was thus able to rise from its ashes, in particular thanks to the initiative of several women. Indeed, the entrepreneur Agathe Vaissière, who already manages the restaurant Le 122, wanted to establish a more confidential appendage of the latter mentioned place, by taking over this small establishment with 25 seats spread over two floors. Distributed by an elegant period staircase with incredible charm, this place with incredible charm is a tribute to the antique Greek gastronome Archestrate from Gela, a fervent traveler is best known for being the author of one of the oldest cookbooks, simply entitled “La Gastronomie”. By AP
De facto, nestled in a bright space, thanks to large bay windows, echoing a variation of colors around yellow and blue tones, this restaurant offers a kitchen open to the street. Once inside, take a seat around one of the marble tables, in one of these seats of different shapes and materials, comforted by a background small vintage wooden bar. Upstairs, you can admire a small room with the same spirit of 50s style, this joint space can thus accommodate random privatizations (photo credits: AP & PDF).
At the age of 30, this young chef has notably gained much experience during his 8 years in London, where he occupied many positions (from waiter to manager) in prestigious establishments, such as the Berners Tavern but also the no less famous Île Rousseau, in the eponym Four Seasons Hotel in Geneva. Claiming a certain freedom of creation, this esthete of taste aims to cook as much as possible local products, and to innovate around forms and original aromatic accords.
A set of raw materials that revisits, in a way, the precepts quoted in the recipes of another illustrious gastronome Brillat-Savarin, directly influenced by the century of Pericles. This is why, while browsing this appetizing menu, which varies according to the seasons and the Chef‘s inspiration, you would have the pleasure of discovering an à la carte choice or a surprise menu, as a concentrate of some of these dishes, brought together in a 3-course proposal for lunch or 5 sequences during a dinner.
The icing on the cake, for 20 euros more, let yourself be guided for a food and wine pairing, through three glasses of wine which will associate the different dishes of these two formulas.
As far as we are concerned, we had the proposal of a tasty and fresh 2020 edition of a red wine from the Irancy appellation, issued by the Franck Givaudin domain, an elixir that went perfectly with our springtime composition.
Unless you prefer to opt for a new interpretation of vitello tonnato, in a pink version this time, embellished with some basil dressing.
On top of that, you wouldn’t be allowed to leave the premises if you don’t taste the incredible centerpiece revisiting the illustrious Millefeuilles pastry, this time embodying a new revolutionary shape, flavored with generous vanilla seeds and praline almonds. Last but not least, a selection of desserts is also up for grabs, via another interpretation of an Araguani chocolate variety made Fondant au Chocolat. This breathtaking fudge unveils a smooth texture, crunched with caramelized pecan nuts and even pistachio powder.