This time, we taste different spirits of (French) Cognac

Cognac is a renowned spirit, throughout the world for centuries, as a wine brandy produced in the French region of the same name. Mostly distilled nowadays in copper stills, Cognac is essentially a blend alcohol that seeks to express the finesse and elegance of its different wines, which composing it and its further uses (like this Brandy Crusta cocktail illustrated here by Weekend Mixologist).

This white wine eau-de-vie is made from a double distillation in a Charentais still, then aged in French oak barrels for a minimum of two years.

Thanks to many achieved efforts, Cognac has gained in sophistication to become the symbol of French luxury and refinement. Paradoxically, this typical and emblematic French know-how has been luckily boosted by the spotlights of its distributors from all over the World, who promoted the premium and ancestral tradition of its producers. Therefore, the rich history of Cognac had always the privilege to offer a real international fame to these vineyards, from the apparition of some prestige Cuvées in the list of the best cocktail bars of the galaxy until some legendary movies. This notoriety wouldn’t have been the same if the Cognac houses have not kept a strong attachment to their vines and the quality of their juices, pursuing, for some of them, a heritage rich of many centuries. By AP 

For your basic information, the vineyards of Cognac are mainly located in the neighbors French departments of Charente and Charente-Maritime, but they could also extend to Deux-Sèvres and Dordogne. Thus, the authentic AOC appellation of Cognac embraces approximately 80,000 hectares of vines, divided into six Crus, and nearly exclusively made of the Ugni Blanc grape variety.

All of them are defined by the nature of their distinct subsoils, among them we can count the Borderies, Fins Bois, Bons Bois, Bois Ordinaires, Petite and Grande Champagne. By the way, a famous 19th century geologist, called Henri Coquand tried to understand and then describe the nature of the soils of this region and their impact on Cognacs (photo credits: Stéphane Charbeau).

• Les Fins Bois represent a specific appellation motivated by the greatest Crus, starring a majority of them, occupied by a line of clay-limestone soils, but also very clayey soils. This smart combination has been resulting to a higher average of eaux-de-vie, due to the method of pressing grapes melt with the expression of some slight floral scents.
• Les Bons Bois are located on the sandy soils of the coastal area, producing really round and elegant eaux-de-vie, as well able to quite quickly mature, with its fruity assets.
• Les Bois Ordinaires are bordered by the Atlantic Ocean, this also predominantly sandy terroir represents just around 2% of the total Cognac production. These eaux-de-vie age quicker with a distinctive proper taste.
• The Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne are situated in the heart of the Cognac region, this time more through clay-limestone soils. Therefore, the upcoming eaux-de-vie are fine (especially for Grande Champagne) and present a predominantly floral bouquet.
• Les Borderies stand in the north-west of the Grande Champagne, this is the smallest territory among these 6 Crus, enriched with silico-clay soils. These eaux-de-vie are round and have a characteristic violet scent. 

In this article, we have also the pleasure to introduce you some different tasting methods. Thus, depending on your sensitivity, we count three main consumption methods. 

After this section, we learn more about some of the main aging mentions, from the less aged, naturally known with the VS initials (for “Very Special”). This blend of eaux-de-vie was aged at least 2 years, in comparison to the 4 years of VSOP (as “Very Special Old Pale”). Thus, this type of Cognac was born at the beginning of the 19th century, following a request from the British Royal House, wishing to receive a new “pale” Cognac, without any additive.

Last but not least, the Extra Hors d’Âge, often much older than the XO, is the wedding of high-quality eaux-de-vie. The result is a visible aromatic subtle blend, due to a fine assemblage of several aged juices. 

As far as we know, the Cognac market is full of various players, enriched with very different universes. Many statuses exist, from the independent owner, who develops each stage of his proper Cognac production, passing by the landlord trader who has more means to elaborate several aged ranges and controls each stage of his production process (from the planting of vines to the bottling of their Cognac).

We start our Cognac tour with La Maison A. de Fussigny, established since 1814 in the historical center of the city of Cognac and as well in its owns cellars, on the riverside of the Charente valley.

Moreover, this ideal location on the banks of the Charente river helps to bring perfect ageing conditions for their Cognacs, due to its direct opening into some fertile waterways. Indeed, this region benefits from a great humidity rate, able to host these kinds of brandy, in some specific connected aging cellars, close to this precious water and whose oldest stills date from 1910!

The result is a selection of accessible Cognacs for everyone but enhanced with a real personality, both dedicated to new consumers and longtime enthusiasts. From their classic range, baptized Creation Range, towards their single-cru range, called Collection Range, you could also naturally explore other items of their specific products, such as organic Cognac, kosher Cognac, and even some nice millesimes…

A couple of words about their Creation Range… This line is regarded as one of the inner essences of Cognac, mostly made from blends finding their origin in the Petite and Grande Champagne appellations. 

In this category, we propose here to taste the A. De Fussigny Selection, a blend of many eaux-de-vie from  different areas (Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, Fins Bois). Indeed, these cited juices wear a transparent and golden robe, with subtle hues of amber, melt in a bouquet of flowered and spicy vanilla notes. 

Now that you know more about XO, why don’t you also try the A. De Fussigny XO Fine Champagne? This time, the majestic Fine Champagne blend is composed of at least 50% of Grande Champagne and the rest of Petite Champagne.

 

Here, you should focus on its golden amber robe, adorned with a remarkable copper reflect and some mahogany hues. As autumn colors for a subtle fruity bouquet, balancing between black cherry and toffee, starting with a floral and oaky nose. Just before pursuing with an amazing major fragrance composed of candied citrus and red fruits. Then would appear some typical aromas straight from the cellar and oak barrels, harmoniously marrying in your palate, with the notes of candied fruit (orange, pear, plums and cherry), licorice and caramel. Finally, some hints of black tea, leather and tobacco stay after your sip.

 

Thus, this double golden medalled Cognac may be considered as a round and smooth expression, dedicated to enjoy pure, with a dash of water for special occasions or even within this revisited Margarita. Otherwise, it would beautifully fits with any kind of chocolate pastry, crème brûlée as well as a fine cigar.

 

Then, we don’t go too far, focusing the fascinating story of the Cognac De Luze Cognac, nowadays property of the Maison Boinaud. Here, we interest ourselves on its founder Alfred de Luze, whose fate is comparable to the one related to Michel Boinaud, who later became the owner of the brand (photo credits: Boinaud). 

 

As a perfect adventurer, Alfred de Luze started his own path from the bottom, and gaining essential souvenirs and encounters, throughout his multiple travels, already in the 19th century. However, it has only been in 1822 that his own Maison was created, bearing his name as Cognac De Luze and settled in the heart of the Grande Champagne area.

 

Since its acquisition, the Boinaud family has maintained this solid reputation with passion and innovation. Charles and Rémi Boinaud, the 24th generation, embody today these family values for the Maison Boinaud. Indeed, already owner of the connoisseur Cognac J. Dupont brand, the Maison Boinaud tended to more and more consider that the Cognac De Luze, as a real revolutionizing brand, notably in terms of tasting experience, along inner intrinsic values as much as possible preserved on the notions of heritage, modernity and know-how. This philosophy allows for the Maison Boinaud to own all the stages of the production : vines, harvest, vinification, distillation, blending, ageing and even the bottling. By the way, you’re invited to learn more about their brand identity while visiting the Maison Boinaud, situated in the charming village of Angeac Champagne, more information contacting their Hospitality Department.

Additionally, you could admire the huge work achieved by the teams, to maintain this timeless Maison as an important representative of the Fine Champagne area. For your information, this style is a successful wedding composed of the two more prestigious vintages of the famous AOC appellation (Controlled Designation of Origin), so to say the Grande Champagne and the Petite Champagne.

 

In order to make this ambition possible, the Maison Boinaud has been distilling for ages the wine coming from their own Grande Champagne vineyards into their distillery. With 425 hectares and 41 pot stills, then Maison Boinaud is the biggest family vineyard in the whole Cognac region, to even master all the stages of production and this until the distillery, the aging and bottling. Moreover, they have been awarded on their environmental involvement with the “High Environmental Value Level 3”, the highest green label in France.

 

In parallel, you could easily appreciate the unique personality expressed by the De Luze line, due through a very particular distillation, operated on lees. Therefore, this process is very acclaimed by Cognac connoisseurs as it requires a certain dexterity and logically some deep experience.

 

It’s not a mystery that the result is a rich and structured eau-de-vie, evolving then into some noticeable amplitude and roundness thanks to the long ageing process in their cellars. Eric Rey (photo on the right), the cellar master of De Luze Cognacs for more than 30 years, watches over the future Cognacs and ensures the constant quality of the final products.

 

 

If the De Luze is so popular throughout the world, it’s not a surprise if the Maison has been frequently awarded, at the most prestigious world competitions. On top of that, the Cognacs De Luze have naturally been adopted by the finest gastronomic tables of more than 30 countries. Thus, you may find them in gourmet restaurants and cocktail bars, and specialized liquor stores.

For instance, the Cognac De Luze VS has the particularity of being enhanced by proper Fine Champagne assets, directly coming from the best terroirs of the Cognac region. By the way, this is a rare asset for such a young expression like VS, distilled and aged in the estate and assembled by their own cellar master. Thus, its fruity and fresh character is undoubtedly amazing. 

 

Enriched with the historical expertise cultivated by the Boinaud family, the Cognac De Luze VS Fine Champagne wears a shiny golden robe and reveals some floral scented and aromatic notes of vine flower, along fruity notes of citrus and orange zest, married with the spicy delicate touch of oak wood. Finally, a smooth final expresses the generosity of this subtle juice, ideal to associate into a Sidecar cocktail.

 

For more choice, the Cognac De Luze VSOP Fine Champagne is highlighted as a unique expression of the finest distillation of their premium homemade eaux-de-vie. Indeed, this exceptional Cognac is a unmissable blend, whose youngest one is 4 years old minimum, of nice eaux-de-vie, to be found in the Grande and Petite Champagne. As we have seen earlier, these two best terroirs in the Cognac region compose this special Fine Champagne blend. As a matter of fact, this golden wine is distilled in an unfiltered condition, following the original method, developed by the Boinaud family, on the lees, contributing to offer a long and surprising finish to this elixir. Once in mouth, you could notice the soft and fruity aromas of plum and more globally, candied fruits, along the floral feeling of rose petals. A perfect balance to match in a Manhattan cocktail, due to its spicy notes of vanilla and chocolate. 

 

In terms of aging evolution, the De Luze XO embodies the required patience and know-how for a premium Cognac. Thus, again this blend of some great, aged of more than 10 year-old, eaux-de-vie, cautiously selected and aged over the years by the cellar master, is aimed to carry a round and durable intense expression. Indeed, this light amber flagship juice is typical of a XO quality, proud of its maturity which offers a wonderful sweetness to this XO. Therefore, under its light amber reflects, arise with exceptional floral flavors of jasmine and medlar flowers, along the fruity notes of fig, plum, candied orange and even crème brûlée! Moreover, this soft and refined amplitude as well reserves spicy notes of hot brioche and toasted oak, in your mouth, before a rich final moment. The Cognac De Luze XO is ideal for a sampling on ice.

Furthermore, as a trained oenologist and real professional, Jean-Michel Naud paid many efforts to develop a range of quality brandies, while always respecting the tradition of a precise wine distillation. With his son Pierre, they focused on the selection of the finest Ugni Blanc grapes, harvested at an optimum maturity, from famous Crus, spread in the AOC area. 

 

By the way, the vineyards Ugni Blanc usually evolve on clay-limestone soils, and is essentially appreciated for its slow maturity and a visible finesse, it offers to the upcoming eaux-de-vie. However, another variety, the Colombard, was earlier mainly cultivated on poor soils and offered subtle fruity and floral notes to its Cognacs. Thus, the mild climate reigning in the Charente region, enabling a shiny exposure of its hillsides, as ideal conditions to reveal the full potential of these grape types.

 

Then, once vinified, the Famille Naud‘s wines are forwarded towards a double distillation, into an open fire operated in small traditional copper stills, after naturally a careful checking prior undergoing any new session.

 

This delicate process may only be achieved, under the presence of the fine lees, in order to bring the awaited roundness and aromatic richness, so precious to the Naud Cognacs. Additionally to this, the juices are then housed in French oak barrels, where they start a long aging process, under the daily attention of the cellar master, whose main mission is to orientate the final blend on the roads of tasting success… For example, you may observe, pictured below, one of these steps. The heating core, one of the most valuable distillation fractions, since it contributes to constitute the personality of the future Cognacs, after at least 2 years of aging in oak barrels.

Otherwise, you should try their VSOP Cognac, at least aged 4 years in oak barrels, in order to obtain this appellation. That’s why, a necessary patience is required to get the opportunity to savor this tasting spirit, brought to light through its auburn and shiny reflections.

On top of that, we upon introduce you the complete offer from the Naud Distillery, from their four Cognacs, ranging from VS to Extra, a 15 years Ron from Panama, a Spiced Rum, a Gin and even a Vodka. For instance, if you rather interest on their XO Cognac, your attention would be surely captured by its long tasting notes of orange jam and toffee, born from the meeting of some tasty Petite and Grande Champagne vintages, selected for their strength and also completed with the intense freshness, emanating from their Fins Bois plots. 

When it comes to any organic form of Cognac, this way of production represents about only 1% of the overall Cognac domain. And since 1998, the Distillerie Du Peyrat, decided to take this commitment, from its vineyards located in Houlette, but whose name comes from Le Peyrat, a small village where it was founded, located 10 kilometers away from the city of Cognac.

For your information, the Distillerie du Peyrat has been distilling Cognacs for several decades, especially since the family has been initially involved in the production of the typical Charentais brandy from 1705.
Then, Jean-François Rault took over the distillery in the 80s, after gaining a significant experience within the Cognac production methods. Cautious about environmental concerns and more globally, the respect of nature, he decided to convert into the production of organic Cognacs. As a pioneer in this domain, he also tended to guarantee a better expression of the terroir, while eliminating any chemical products over his 30 hectares of vineyards.

Among the exclusive list of 3 jewels, all Ecocert and USDA certified, proposed for to your precious moments, we can count on the Organic Selection, at first sight.

“Silky and light bodied, this USDA certified-organic Cognac offers warm notes of honey, baked pear and vanilla sweetness, drying to a delicately spiced finish” – Wine Enthusiast Magazine